Which crimp to choose for her engagement ring?
Before buying a ring with a gem, it is important to choose the type of setting. This criterion is fundamental because it ensures the stability of the stone by keeping it in its place. In addition, it enhances its aesthetic appearance and facilitates its maintenance. Let’s see what are the different types of wedding ring crimps and engagement rings and what are their advantages as well as their disadvantages.
Here are the most popular types of crimps for rings with diamonds or gemstones.
This model is among the most adopted and most requested by the suitors. Its design is recognizable by its points which cling on the stone to hold it in place.
In general, this type of fixation is characterized by its 4 or 6 teeth. However, there are crimps with 8 claws. Of course, the more spikes, the stronger the attachment.
Its advantages: The tips hide only a small part of the stone offers more visibility. This is important when it comes to diamond. Indeed, its brightness depends on the amount of light that passes through it.
Disadvantages: Claws hang easily on clothes or hair. This occurs when the hooks are worn or when the ring loses some of its teeth. To avoid this, check the claws every two years, repair and tighten if necessary. If the ring is worn daily or if the ring owner does manual work, it is a good idea to set the stone at the same level as the ring rather than lifting it.
THE SOLITARY SETTING
This crimp presents a single stone at its centre. This shape is one of the most common because it presents the diamond or the stone it supports.
This kind of editing is mostly done with claws. However, there are models with a closed crimp.
Its advantages: The solitaire highlights the stone that it supports. It does not present side jewels. With its simple design, it is easy to clean and maintain.
Disadvantages: Although the absence of side stones draws more attention to the single central piece, the lack of additional pieces diminishes its brilliance. In addition, smaller gems are less expensive. A diamond of 0.50 carats mounted with two smaller ones of 0.25 ct (all for a total of 1.00 ct) for example would be cheaper than a single of 1.00 karats.
A solitary ring will have additional advantages and disadvantages depending on the type of fixation of the stone: claws, closed or other. For more details on the respective configurations, you can find in this article the dedicated sections.
This type of editing is also very popular. It is recognized by the band of metal that wraps around the stone. For this model, there are two types: the complete encirclement of the metal around the stone (closed) and the semi-enclosed.
For the first, the circumference of the stone is surrounded entirely. It is safer but hides much of the jewel. For the second, crimping covers only part of the stone. Its exposed surface is prone to external aggressions that can scratch or scratch it.
Its advantages: It offers more safety compared to claw crimping. With this design, stone protection is optimal even over time.
Its disadvantages: It hides the stone much more compared to the claw set. Thus, if you buy a diamond ring, for example, you face two important choices: safety or visibility. As you can see, there is a trade-off between these two wedding ring configurations.
CRIMPING IN TENSION
The tension crimp holds the gemstone by pressing it with two strips of metal. It is this pressure on both sides of the stone which ensures its fixation, from which also comes to its name.
Each tension crimp is unique and specially designed to fit the dimensions of the stone it supports.
Its advantages: The crimping in tension is perfect, unique and original. In addition, it offers good visibility on the jewel.
Disadvantages: A crimp in good quality can be very expensive because the jeweller must ensure that the two bands perfectly match the size of the stone. Also, it is less secure than other crimps to the point that wearer must be very careful, especially if the person performs manual work. Finally, in the case of a replacement of the stone or a readjustment of the size of the ring, the modification can be very difficult.
Most of the disadvantages of conventional tension crimping are overtaken by its modified version: improved tension crimping. This type of crimp looks pretty like the previous one but has a configuration that supports the stone like a closed or clawed crimp. Thus, the two strips have other additional fasteners. This type of fitting is safer than a classic set of an engagement ring.
THE THREE-STONE RING
The three-stone ring also called trio rings is very popular among honeymooners most of them buy from Midwest Jewellery. In general, it is a central stone positioned between two side stones that can be of the same size or smaller. This configuration is ideal for diamond rings or for occasions such as wedding or engagement.
Diamonds or precious stones for this mounting can be supported by claws, thanks to enclosed crimping or other types of fasteners. You can read the advantages and disadvantages of each of these fixtures in the respective parts located above.
Its advantages: The side stones in a three-stone ring enhance the brilliance and brilliance of the central stone, especially if it is a diamond.
Disadvantages: More stones mounted on a ring also mean more pieces to clean. Thus, this provision requires special attention. Also, if you want the centre stone of the ring to stand out, make sure that the two side stones do not exceed it in size or brilliance and even less in colour.
THE CATHEDRAL MOUNT
The cathedral mount raises the stone above the stem of the ring. The diamond is supported by metal arches, hence the name.
In a cathedral style setting, the stone is usually held by claws or by a closed crimp. This type of fixation is one of the most popular. Many people adopt it during the engagement or for a wedding.
Its advantages: The elevation of the stone relative to the stem highlights it. A cathedral mount also creates an illusion of size and can make the diamond or gem appear larger.
Disadvantages: Positioning the stone at this height exposes it to shocks as well as potential accidents, especially if the person carrying it carries out work by hand. This height also increases the risk of clinging to clothes or other things.
The other advantages and disadvantages are based on how the stone is supported on the ring: with claws, with an enclosed crimp or other fasteners.
THE HALO MOUNT
The halo mount is a layout style in which the central stone is surrounded by diamonds or smaller stones.
You can have a single or double halo mount: the first has a single stone circle surrounding the centrepiece while the second has two rows.
Its advantages: The halo mount increases the overall brilliance of a diamond ring. This arrangement is a good choice if the centre stone is small and you want to enhance its appearance. A halo mount can also be seen as a cheaper alternative to buying a single centre stone. Indeed, a 0.70-carat diamond set encircled with small 0.30 carat models would be cheaper than a single 1-carat diamond. This is simply because larger stones are rarer and more expensive.
Disadvantages: Halo frames are significantly harder to clean and maintain than other frames with fewer stones.
THE SET STONE
The pavé set is made with very small diamonds inserted in the tiny holes on the ring. The stones are firmly held with metal droplets. The result is a surface paved with small stones that are attached to the edges by small claws.
There is a variant of this type of crimping called “micro-pavement”. The latter is designed with even smaller diamonds.
Its advantages: The pavé set enhances the brilliance of a diamond ring. Its splendour is more remarkable. It is also a good alternative if you wish to improve the shine of a weak central stone.
Its disadvantages: Some set paving stones are not well made and its stones are only temporarily maintained by the claws: the droplets of metals held to ensure their fixation. That is why it is advisable to examine the piece with a magnifying glass while paying attention to uneven claws, to stones that are misaligned or that overlap each other.
Rings with a paved set are very difficult, or even impossible to resize, especially if the stones cover the stem.
All you need to know about setting a ring size
If you’ve already bought a ring that fits perfectly with your finger, you’ve probably wondered if you’ll ever be able to shrink or enlarge it. But is the adjustment of a ring still possible? What risks does this entail? Here are some tips for the perfect size of your wedding ring or engagement ring.
CUT THE RING TO ADJUST IT
Usually, to change the size of a ring, the jeweller cuts a small part of the piece of goldsmith then enlarges or narrows the jewel, before resolving both ends. To enlarge a ring, the craftsman stretches the previously cut ring and then adds a piece of metal of the desired length.
The narrowing of a ring is based on the same principle: after cutting the ring, the jeweller removes the excess part before joining the two ends. Once the jewel has the right size, the professional welds the ring at the place of the cut.
THE SIZE SETTING CAN MAKE THE RING MORE FRAGILE
When the size of a ring had to be adjusted, the place where it was cut then welded becomes more fragile. Especially since the cut is made on the inner part of the ring, the part that undergoes the most pressure when the ring is worn (in the case where the jewel has a sense of wear). In this case, if you apply pressure to the weld, the ring may break. Nevertheless, if the jeweller does his job properly, there will be little chance that it will happen.
Tip: Jewelers such as Histoire d’Or, Cleor, Carador, the Jewellery Riding School and Thomas Escudier offer a free bet for a certain period after purchase, under certain conditions. When buying jewellery, find out more about additional terms and warranties as it may save you money.
ENLARGE OR SHRINK A RING: WHAT ARE THE RISKS?
It happens that, during the process of adjusting a ring, the jeweller has difficulties to properly weld both ends. As a result, the ring will be more likely to break in the future.
How to know if the size of your ring has weakened your jewellery? Just look at where the weld was made. If the ring has been welded properly, there should be no dips and the surface should be flat and smooth.
On the other hand, if the ring is thinner at this point and you notice that the surface is slightly bumpy, the weld is at risk of breaking. If the alloy used to weld the two ends of the ring is of a different colour, you can distinguish a line, but as long as the surface is flat and of the same size, there should be no risk of fragility.
In case you notice an abnormal line where your ring has been welded, you can ask your jeweller to strengthen the weld. In general, this involves adding a small amount of metal to the solder and then polishing the surface to equalize it with the rest of the ring. However, keep in mind that if your ring is platinum, because of the specific properties of this metal, it is likely that a line is visible at the weld, even if the work was done correctly. .
WHEN A RING CAN NOT BE ADJUSTED
In the case where a ring has the possibility of being adjusted, there is however a size limit to consider. If you want to enlarge or shrink your ring by more than one size or two sizes, then it is unlikely that the fit is possible without the risk of damaging the jewel.
Some metals are difficult to work. Jewellers can not, for example, resize titanium rings because this metal is not compatible with traditional cutting and welding processes. Other methods, such as stretching, pruning or adding additional material, may be used, but their effectiveness has limitations.
Some types of rings are almost impossible to adjust (usually those fitted and encrusted with gemstone). For example, rings set with diamonds / precious stones are difficult to adjust. If stones are included in your ring, they will have to be removed before being able to proceed to the size of the jewel.
However, if the stones have not been crimped, removing them without damaging the ring may not be possible. In such cases, unless the stone is a diamond or a stone capable of withstanding the heat, the adjustment may not be possible because the high temperature during welding may damage the stone. This is what happens with platinum, sterling silver, and palladium rings.